I was in Taupo by the evening of 26th. I was picked up by a guy named Mark (I hope the name is correct) and we listened to his tunes all the way. He is a musician and Holy Golightly - Tom Waits kind of vibes were presented through the speakers. Taupo sounds like a town somewhere in Estonia. Well, my dear, it's still north island of New Zealand. This country somewere deep in the memories from my childhood when I used to watch soviet film version of Jules Verne's "The Children of Captain Grant". Can't really recall how many times I've seen this film. Anytime I watched it I had a vision of New Zealand which I actually matchede Milford Sound when I visited this place four years ago. Well, friends, this blog entry is from the most exciting, mystical and beautiful place I have seen in this distant country.
"There, they find a former quarter-master of the Britannia, Ayrton, who proposes to lead them to the site of the wreckage. However, Ayrton is a traitor, who was not present during the loss of the Britannia, but was abandoned in Australia after a failed attempt to seize control of the ship to practice piracy. He tries to take control of the Duncan, but out of sheer luck, this attempt also fails. However the Glenarvans, the Grant children, Paganel and some sailors are left in Australia, and mistakenly believing that theDuncan is lost, they sail to Auckland, New Zealand, from where they want to come back to Europe. When their ship is wrecked south of Auckland on the New Zealand coast, they're captured by a Māori tribe, but luckily manage to escape and board a ship that they discover, with their greatest surprise, to be the Duncan."
I was stopped by some Argentinean guy on my way to the grocery store. "Do you need a lift? Come, let's go to Hastings!". Hastings? Is he crazy? I just arrived in Taupo. Anyhow, after 15 minutes I was driving his van and getting him to the farm near Hastings. I didn't have anywhere to stay anyway, so didn't really care where I roll out my sleeping bag. Plus the guy said he's going to work on a farm for a week. Maybe I could join too I thought. I woke up in the morning in the argentinean van to find out that the farmer wouldn't risk it to take me without work permission, even for couple days. I filled the fuel on the way here for 45 bucks and had 5 left. Anyhow, went on the road same morning to hike back to Turangi to get into a National Park for a couple days.
Next thing I know I am picking limes with Mr. Lime: "Watch out for the prickles". "Heh?" and right when I was warned I got one in my finger: "They're hiding behind the fruit, bastards!". Mr. Lime turned out to be well informed of Latvia and my usual well prepared speech about where I was from turned into a very interesting dialogue. He traveled across all Soviet Union in mid 70ies which is more than unusual for average kiwi. He had a stamp in a passport to never be allowed to entry the Union again after visiting it for the fourth time. Anyway, we established a very good connection and when I got out of the car I owned a lime chutney and lime dressing - some of the products Mr. Lime is producing.
I bought some food which probably could last me a day and hit the National Park. Hitchhiked all the way to Whakapapa (fakapapa) and was dropped off at this rainy, misty foggy village. I sneaked in a lodge on a campsite where I met a dutch traveler Martin. Later on I ran into Aitor with whom unknowingly by then I would make it to Tongarriro crossing. Stay in a Whathohonu hut for two nights and meet Helen who made us a beautiful Thai veg curry.
With my 30 kg backpack I hardly made it to Whathohonu hut and after taking a nap I ran into Aitor. I was planning to hit the high way either same evening or the day after, because there was no possible way I could make it to Tongariro with this weight on my shoulders. Anyway, we decided to leave our bags at the hut and Helen was so unbelievably nice to let us leave our smelly stuff and hit the road to the Volcanos, craters, smoke and turquoise lakes.
That's a possum trap. Helen puts a slice of apple with cinnamon and peanut butter. I could fall for that too!
The possum team. We didn't realize then that we will hold a funeral for a possum. Dig his grave with a silver spade and drop him down with a golden chain.
Late night card session. I never had sympathy for them but it was fun anyway.
Walking these extremely beautiful paths in a such a good basque country representative Aitor, was something unforgettable and definitely was one of the highlight of this whole NZ trip.
Plus, we had amazing companion - rainbow! It accompanied me and Aitor all the way to Tongarirro crossing and back. Haven't seen rainbow for this long, for hours and hours. We walked 26 km in total that day crossing parallel universes, getting into a diverse weather conditions and moonwalking up and into the crater.
The valley above has a shape of a frozen movement. You can feel the continuity of it's shape. It's like seeing a photo of a person running, you know what's happening in the next moment. Here, you feel the power of the size of these natural forms and you know that it was frozen in the movement and somehow you feel that they are still about to move.
Wild eyes.
Hut on the way.
Out to the highway.
This valley consumed a huge portion of my negative karma. It was so vivid and illuminated the bright sides of the mind with a rainbow. Auspicious. I dedicate all positive feelings that I accumulated there to all of you.
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